3 Bowling Techniques to Make a Strike or Spare

It is a strike, when all of the pins are knocked down "on the first ball of a frame." 

Every bowler would like to hit a strike and score big to win with this action, but it is not merely a stroke of luck. Bowlers who want to make it big by hitting strikes more often than not have to work at it. 

Like in any sport, great action comes in small packages, where the attention is focused on the techniques learned and used by that player. It is important for every player to know how to hone his or her skills to win the game. 

So for those who wish to make a strike or a spare in order to win a match, here are three bowling techniques that they can use: 

1. Spinner 

This technique refers to the way of delivering a shot with the intention that no more than a minor part of the ball touches contacts the lane. This technique promotes less friction between the ball and the lane, not considering the "oiling pattern" of that lane. As a result the ball glides practically in a straight line down the lane. 

Experts contend, however, that this kind of shot is not very successful in that it does not attempt to take full advantage of the dragging the power of the bowler. 

2. Stroker 

With this kind of technique, the bowler relies more on precision than strength. This technique is characterized by employing the "by the book" style of playing that entails the proper execution of even movements, keeping square shoulders to the target all the way through the release of the ball, and maintaining an on-time move at the "foul line." 

This is the "classic" technique of most bowlers because it employs smooth and controlled movements and lessens the possibility of injuries. 

3. Cranker 

This is the kind of technique that is being employed by a bowler who relies more on his strength to deliver a good shot rather than accuracy. It is like 'hitting hard' when a bowler uses this technique. 

The skill involves more adrenaline that constitutes the bowler's drive to win. 

Usually, crankers use "late timing", they do not slide, attempt to get to the "foul line" earlier than the ball, and they bend their elbows to keep their hands at the back and beneath the ball. 

There are no perfect techniques, but there is a particular technique for every player. The important thing is to create a strike or even a spare.

6 Steps To Buying The Right Snowboard Boots

One of the most important pieces of equipment of snowboarding is your snowboard boots. They are your connection to the snowboard, by not spending time in finding the right boots; you can ruin your snowboarding experience. some quick tips for buying boots. 

Should I buy Step in or Strap in boots... 

The first decision is if you want the traditional strap-in boots or the newer step-in boots. If you decide to go for the step-in boots you will have to buy the bindings and boots together, this is because the strap-in boots will not work with the step-in binding. The trend at the moment seems to be softer boots with strap-in bindings. 

the fit of the boots... 

No matter how much you have to spend on boots it is very important that you take time finding the best fitting boots. If you buy boots that are comfortable in the shop you will find aching feet on the slope. So find boots that are snug. Remember be patient. Different brands of boots suit different types of feet. So go forth and find your boots. 

Trying On Boots... 

Here are a few things to remember when trying on your boots. Firstly wear proper socks. Put on a boot and push your heel into the back of the boot to make sure that your foot is secure. Then tie the boots laces tight but not too tight. Then close the outer lining of the boot, repeat the process with the other boot. Attach the bindings and stand up. Notice how secure your feet are, move forwards and backwards making sure there is no rubbing that may cause you discomfort later on. 

heel lift... 

Heel Lift is when you lean forward in your boots and your heel lifts and not your snowboard. But this will be minimized if you find the best boots for your feet.

Inner Boots... 

There are many advantages of having inner boots or lining, usually the inner boots can be laced like the outer boots, and they provide a little extra stability on the slope. You can take the inner boot out to dry after a long day snowboarding.

Some Boots have additional features... 

As you search for the perfect pair of boots you will notice that as the price for boots goes higher with the features. For example air-pumps. All you must remember is that these features are useless if the boots don?t fit you in the first place.

6 Types of Baseball or Softball Pitching Machines You Can Consider

Are you getting a baseball or softball pitching machine but fretting over the different brands and options available? Well, it's inevitable isn't it? After all, there are at least 6 different types of pitching machines and countless different brands and models out in the market today! 

Here are the 6 major types : 

(1) Real Ball Pitching Machines

As the name suggests, “Real Ball” pitching machines throws out real balls or those machine pitch dimpled balls you see at the commercial batting cages. Both types of baseballs weigh about 5oz.

Such equipment usually comes in 2 major categories which comprises of the Arm Styled Wheel Machines or the Compressed Air Machines. Although there may be exceptions, all require a batting cage. Invest in an auto feeder and remote control if you're opting for a one player mode and you're good to go. 

(2) Wheel Style Pitching Machines 

Ever seen those pitching machines used in leagues, high schools, colleges, pro ball or simply off someone else's backyard? Yes, these are the ones. One of the most popular choices, wheel style pitching machines can be used just for baseball, softball or in a combination package for both sports. 

Through the support of a rubber wheel(s), a motor propelling the wheels' movements, dynamic parts with speed and directional adjustment knobs and a metal frame attached to a tripod, wheel styled pitching machines run on 110v power. If you're using them on fields without electricity supply, you'll need a power generator. 

(3) Single Wheel Machines

These are entry level machines used to throw a straight pitch in a speed ranging from 25-70 mph. The price is usually set above $900. Currently, there are only a few single wheel machines out in the market which has the added feature of churning out curveball throws. Coaches may prefer the curveball option since they're more versatile when it comes to throwing the breaking ball from either of the “hand”. But be prepared to pay as they can cost $1,200 or more.

Overall, single wheel machines are still slightly cheaper than the real ball machine and is lightweight enough to be carried from your car boot to the ballpark. However, if you prefer higher speeds or a greater variety of pitch throws, you may want to consider the 2 wheeled machines instead.

(4) Two Wheel Machines

These machines can simulate almost every pitch regardless of the angle, hand (be it left or right) or speed you're talking about. Naturally because of the additional capabilities, they're also much more expensive than other types of pitching machines. 

Their ability to throw all the different types of pitches and the added advantage of using them for ground balls, fly balls and even catchers pop-ups increases the thrill and fun practising with such machines. They are relatively portable too. 

Some people dislike the fact that they can't see the movement of the “pitcher's arm” with such machines. But after a bit of getting used to, it's not really a major disadvantage. More importantly, however is that the consistency of their pitches drops with either wet, waterlogged balls or swollen balls. Like all wheel type machines  So, if you're living in a region that's consistently dealing with rainy or wet weather, you may want to consider other options.

(5) Arm Style Pitching Machines

Yes, these are often the ones you see at the commercial batting cages. You know, those junky heap of steel affixed with the red lightbulbs alerting the batter on the impending pitch? 

Equally suitable for both baseball or softball, these machines have been around for more than 50 years and can throw a straight and accurate ball at speeds that varies between 25 to 85 mph. Because of their bulk, instead of shoving them into your garage, the smarter move is to just cover them up and leave them where they are after the season. Otherwise, they're pretty durable.

(6) Rack Fed or Hopper Fed Pitching Machines

Such machines are pre-fed with baseballs or softballs so that no auto feeder are required. There are mainly 2 types. One is rack fed and can contain 38 baseballs or 28 softballs at one time. The other is hopper fed and can hold as much as 600 baseballs or 400 softballs. 

These are professional base ball training equipment and are incredibly durable. Maintenance is often just a routine application of lubricating oils to a couple of the joints and even if you do need to replace a few of faulty parts, they're relatively inexpensive and easy to fix.

One advantage with these machines is that player can often see the pitcher wind up so that he can position himself for the swing in a more realistic timing. However, because of their bulk, they're not really as portable as the other types mentioned earlier.

5 “Extra” Things to Remember On Every Dive

Don’t leave the dock without it

When you pack your gear bag, your checklist probably includes the usual gear and emergency equipment, mask, fins, regulator and one of those kits with a few extra o-rings, neoprene patches and regulator mouthpieces. Here are a few extra things that you can throw into your gear bag that will make your dive more comfortable, confident, and safe.

Citrus beverages

When I surface, the first thing I want to do is get the taste of ocean out of my mouth. As much as I appreciate the smell of the sea and the salty air, I’m not so enthusiastic about having it on my tongue. Water is refreshing, but I find that I can drink a few liters of bottled water and still taste the remnants of the sea in my mouth.

After experimenting with dozens of beverage candidates, I find that Five Alive is hands-down the best cure for oceanmouth. Other citrus juices are good, but none are quite as effective as Five Alive. The better ones were those that contain acidic juices like pineapple and grapefruit.

The juice serves another purpose: rehydration. It seems counterintuitive that spending an hour submerged in water can cause dehydration, but it’s true. The air in your tanks is very dry – necessarily so, since moisture in a tank will rust it from the inside. Just breathing in that dry air for an hour will silently dehydrate you. Drink something when you get back to the boat and you can avoid the symptoms of dehydration such as headache, nausea and dizziness.

Long-sleeved rashgard or cotton shirt

Did you know that the chemicals in sunscreen are poisonous to reef-dwelling marine life? You need to protect your skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation, but you don’t want to slather on the SPF lotion before your dive. Cover up the old fashioned way with a cotton shirt or a long-sleeved rashguard. 

Laminated Dive Table Chart

Are you dependent on your computer? Go back and review your certification training and learn how to calculate your residual nitrogen using tables. Computers are great tools, but it behooves every diver to remember how to manage their nitrogen levels without gadgetry.

A “dry bag”

A dry bag needn’t be anything fancy – inexpensive bags with resealable flaps are available at most camping or marine supply stores. They don’t need to be watertight to 100 ft – since you leave them on the boat in your gear bag. My favorite is a bright yellow, rubber bag with a top that folds over three times and tucks into itself for an easy watertight seal. Many divers on a budget will use a variety of disposable resealable freezer bags.

In my dry bag, I keep:

• Tissues – a necessity. After purging my mask a few times, my sinuses get rebellious. 

• Cotton Swabs – some gentle attention to get the water out of my ears.

• A photocopy of my identification & passport – just in case

• Band-aids – because I stub my toes on boats

• Everything that was in my pockets – Before donning my wetsuit, my dry bag (by virtue of its sealability) is a good place to keep a cell phone, camera, wallet, jewelry, car keys, etc.

Tell someone where you are going and who you’re with.

Make this a habit, so you don’t need to be concerned when an emergency arises. 

First, make sure the dive operator knows who you are, where you are staying, and who to contact in case of an emergency. If you are injured during a dive, the dive operators might whisk you directly to the nearest hospital, medical clinic or decompression chamber. If the medical staff can’t determine your identity, it can complicate your medical attention.

Second, tell someone who isn’t diving with you where you are going. That could be others in your party, the hotel concierge, or a phone call to a relative back home. Tell them the name of the dive shop, your destination, the departure time and estimated return time for your dive excursion. If you know it, include the names of the boat, its captain, and divemaster. If you are traveling alone or diving in a group, write the information down and leave it with the hotel office. If your hotel is near a popular diving spot, they will be used to that sort of thing.